Hinghwa Cuisine: A Taste Shaped by Land and Sea - Singapore Puxian (Hinghwa) Network

Flavors of Home, Stories of Time

The Hinghwa Food & Cultural Festival 2024, organized by the Singapore Puxian (Hinghwa) Network, was more than a feast for the senses. For many Hinghwa descendants born and raised in Southeast Asia, it rekindled a connection with the tastes of their ancestral home. When I traveled through Putian and Xianyou in June this year, I made it a point to sample a few local dishes. Familiar recipes, prepared in different towns or by different chefs, revealed fresh nuances of flavor each time.

This diversity within unity is the essence of Hinghwa cuisine. Putian, often praised as the “Little Lu of the Seaside,” is a land where people lived by the sea yet also tilled the soil. Over centuries, this interplay of land and sea gave birth to a culinary tradition that is both resourceful and distinctive. To the Hinghwa community, a dish on the table is never just about satisfying hunger — it is a vessel for memory, warmth, and belonging.

For those who have never set foot in Putian, a visit to the region promises a revelation at the dining table. From the careful choice of ingredients to the refined cooking methods, every detail reflects the ingenuity of local cooks and the authentic flavors of home.

Signature Dishes of Hinghwa Cuisine

Lormee: A Bowl of Affection

Lormee holds an irreplaceable place in Hinghwa households. As early as the Ming and Qing dynasties, it was a staple at weddings and banquets — “no feast is complete without noodles.” The broth, simmered for hours with dried shrimp, oysters, clams, pork bones, and mushrooms, is thick and fragrant. Just before serving, it is topped with peanuts and seaweed, filling the room with aroma. To the Hinghwa people, “a bowl of lormee is a bowl of affection.” For migrants to Southeast Asia, it was often their first taste of home away from home.

Hinghwa Rice Vermicelli: The Comfort of Everyday Life

Since the Tang and Song dynasties, Putian has been a rice-growing region. Its rice vermicelli, fine and resilient, is renowned for being versatile and easy to preserve. While stir-fried versions are popular in Southeast Asia, Putian has its own unique creation — rice vermicelli stir-fried with soy milk. With dried shrimp and other simple additions, the dish carries both innovation and nostalgia.

Bian Rou (Dumpling Soup): A Taste of Reunion

Dating back to the Song dynasty, Hinghwa-style dumplings, or bian rou, have been savored for over a thousand years. Paper-thin skins envelop a delicate pork filling, simmered in clear broth. Families serve them during festivals and joyous occasions as a symbol of reunion and togetherness.

Hinghwa Mee Sua: Longevity in Every Strand

Mee sua, the “longevity noodle,” is one of the most iconic Hinghwa staples. Made from hand-kneaded wheat flour and sun-dried for resilience and fragrance, it was a trusted companion for early migrants to Southeast Asia. Lightweight yet long-lasting, it carried both practicality and sentiment. To this day, in Singaporean Hinghwa households, a steaming bowl of mee sua remains a must at birthdays, weddings, and festivals.

Qiang Rou (Stir-Fried Pork): Mastery of the Wok

A traditional Putian specialty, qiang rou originated in the Tianjiuwan district during the late Qing dynasty. Thinly sliced pork is coated in starch and quickly stir-fried over high heat — a technique that requires precision. The result: tender yet springy bites with a distinctive texture. Once a humble street food, qiang rou has since earned a place at family banquets and fine dining tables, showcasing the craftsmanship of Hinghwa cooking.

Red Rice Cake: A Celebration of Joy

The hong tuan is a festive rice cake beloved for its bright red hue and round form, symbolizing prosperity and reunion. Unlike the familiar “ang ku kueh” of Southeast Asia, Hinghwa red cakes often enclose mashed mung beans with their skins, giving them a richer aroma and chewy texture. With roots traced back to the Tang dynasty, these cakes are made annually in late lunar December, a highlight of the New Year preparations. They are also offered at temples, birthdays, and weddings, always carrying blessings of fortune and harmony.

Lychee Pork: A Banquet Classic

First created by renowned Fuzhou chef Wang Baoshan in the late Qing period, this dish has been cherished for over two centuries. Pork tenderloin is scored, deep-fried until it curls into lychee-like shapes, then tossed in a sweet-and-sour glaze. The crunch of water chestnuts (or potatoes, depending on the season) adds contrast, while some chefs enhance the flavor with red yeast rice. Its balance of tangy and savory flavors has made it a perennial favorite at celebratory banquets.

Braised Tofu: Subtle and Pure

Simple yet profound, braised tofu reflects the everyday tastes of Ming and Qing households. Fresh tofu is stewed gently with seafood and mushrooms, yielding a delicate fragrance that lingers on the palate. Unlike the heavy, oily tendencies of Fujianese cuisine, this dish shines in its restraint — pure, light, and nourishing.

Square Cake: A Symbol of Blessings

Dating back over three centuries, fang gao is a soft, steamed rice cake molded into neat squares. It carries the blessing of “peace in all directions” and is a common feature at weddings and festivals. Alongside red rice cakes, it represents the dual pillars of Hinghwa pastry tradition, embodying wishes for stability and prosperity.

Oyster Fritters: Golden Crisp from the Streets

At last year’s Hinghwa Food & Cultural Festival, oyster fritters were among the most popular snacks. Believed to have originated in the late Qing, fishermen once combined oysters, shredded taro, and sweet potato flour into patties before frying them golden brown. Crisp on the outside, soft within, oyster fritters remain a beloved street food that captures the earthy charm of Hinghwa cuisine.

Hinghwa cuisine is more than food. It is a record of migration, resilience, and family bonds carried across seas. Each dish tells a story — of Putian’s coastlines and farmlands, of festive tables and humble kitchens, of longing and belonging. For the Hinghwa diaspora, these flavors are not just sustenance, but living links to heritage.